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The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training
Sponsor: April Henderson
Summary
The purpose of this study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.
Official title: The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training: A Randomized Control Trial
Key Details
Gender
All
Age Range
18 Years - Any
Study Type
INTERVENTIONAL
Enrollment
36
Start Date
2025-11-11
Completion Date
2026-04-06
Last Updated
2026-02-18
Healthy Volunteers
Yes
Conditions
Interventions
Traditional Hangboard Protocol
A structured finger flexor strength training protocol performed on a climbing hangboard at 70% of maximal finger flexion strength. Training consists of 5 seconds of isometric loading followed by 5 seconds of rest for 6 repetitions per set, across 6 sets with 3 minutes rest between sets. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks following a standardized upper extremity warm-up.
Extensor Tendon Isometric Training
A structured finger extensor tendon training protocol performed at 70% of maximal finger extension strength using isometric loading. This intervention will be in addition to performing the Finger Flexor Protocol. Training consists of 30-second isometric contractions with 3 minutes of rest between sets for a total of 6 sets per hand. Training is performed twice weekly for six weeks and is completed during rest periods of the finger flexor training protocol
Locations (1)
Mazamas
Portland, Oregon, United States